The Wausau area just got a little bike friendlier with the recent introduction of a community-wide system of 622 bicycle route signs. Finally! Perhaps you’re thinking that a bike could replace some of the miles you log in a car each day. So do you need any special gear to make commuting a genuine part of your routine? There are a few pieces of equipment that are absolute necessities. And a few more to up the convenience and comfort factor.
The necessities
Bike – Obviously. While there are some seriously cool commuter-specific bikes available it doesn’t really matter what kind of bike you have as long as you’re comfortable. You want to ride a titanium frame racer? Great! A dual-suspension downhill mountain bike? Good for you. A beach cruiser? Cool! As long as you are comfortable riding the bike, ride what you want. Just make sure the bike fits you well, is comfortable and in good working order. If shopping for a new bike makes sense, proceed with caution with regard to department store bikes. Some brands you will find at department stores use lower level components which are not easily exchanged or upgraded. Other brands, however, can be upgraded with new parts and easily customized to make your commute comfy and efficient.
The Diamondback Insight is a hybrid with a host of features that commuters really appreciate. Shep’s price is $ 449.99
Find a reputable bike shop (preferably locally owned and operated by someone who rides where you do) and speak to someone who can explain the benefits of different bicycles.
Helmet – This is a non-negotiable item. Consider this a very inexpensive insurance policy against head injuries. A helmet is not a magic wand that will keep you from sustaining any injuries, but it can protect you from potentially serious injury that will ruin your day, commute, and possibly much more. Shepherd & Schaller’s adult helmets start at only $35. The investment is worth the price.
Lights – Lights are a must in twilight hours, not to mention in the dark. Unless you are able to commute both directions in daylight, and the weather is never dark or stormy where you live, you need lights. You should have a good bright white light for the front, and at least one red light in the back (preferably one that can be set to flash to be better noticed). Some commuters swear by two lights up front; one bright fixed beam and one flashing LED. The flashing lights are supposed to draw a driver’s attention to the fact that you exist. Some communities, including Wausau, WI, even require lights between dawn and dusk, or longer.
Basic Repair Tools – A patch kit, spare tube, tire irons and an air pump (make sure it’s appropriate for the valves on your particular tubes – Presta or Schroeder ). Having these things with you, and knowing how to use them, will allow you to get yourself going again quickly after a breakdown. Forget them, and you may find yourself hoofing it.
Something to carry your stuff – Backpack, messenger bag, rack and panniers, basket on the front or back of the bike, trailer. Really, it doesn’t matter. There are many, many options out there.
A rack with panniers is a great way to carry gear while keeping your weight balanced.
Many backpacks, panniers and messenger bags are made to be truly waterproof, which could be important as well as convenient. Be aware that how you carry your gear may affect your balance and the overall ride. If you can test options out with your typical load it will help you decide how to best carry your things.
Lock – Unless you have a place that provides secure storage for your bike, you’ll want a good lock. Cable locks and light chains come in different weights and will make a thief’s task difficult. Invest in a heavy-duty (and heavy) U-lock such as those made by Kryptonite if your bike is especially attractive to thieves to further reduce risk.
Knowledge of traffic laws applicable to cycling– Most are the same as the rules that apply to motorists, but there are some differences. Know them and follow them. You can be given a ticket for breaking them.
Optional Items
Special clothing – You can ride in your work clothes. In fact, if it’s a short ride, it may be preferable. If you have a longer ride, bike specific clothing will add comfort and performance, and doesn’t always fit like a glove or glow in the dark (although reflective features are a really good idea, if only on your shoes.) Padded bike shorts are often the first thing commuters add to their shopping bag.
Rain Gear – Something to keep you dry from the outside, and preferably something that vents well to keep you dry on the inside as well. Most rain jackets and pants roll-up or stuff into a self-pocket for storage that doesn’t take up much room. Again, reflective hits on rain gear make you visible to motorists.
Fenders – These are great to keep the road muck off your clothing in the rain. If you choose to commute in your street clothes these may move into the necessity category if you hope to avoid going into that business meeting or classroom with a stripe of mud up your back.
Water bottle or “hydration system” – A ride of just a few blocks probably won’t require this, but it’s always good to have something to satisfy your thirst as you ride. For longer commutes, it will become more of a necessity.
Bell – Or a horn. It’s not only polite to let pedestrians and other riders know you’re coming up behind them, your bell can improve your safety.
With so many resources at your fingertips, bike commuting may be the easiest new habit you adopt. If you have more commuting questions or concerns, commutebybike.com is your next stop.
Shepherd & Schaller’s professional bike shop specializes in customization and will install your bike new accessories for free. (those you buy from us) Plus, meet with Pete for fit adjustments and one-on-one advise to plan your commute in all the weather that Wisconsin offers.
Warm temps and standing water mean insects are hatching at your favorite parks, campsites and back yards. Great. You know that protection from insect-born illnesses is smart and itchy bites are not just annoying but risk infection. So what’s an outdoor lover like you to do? Read what our friends at the CDC recommend (below) and stop in for products that get the job done. Shepherd & Schaller stocks professional grade repellents. Which one is for you?
Q. Why should I use insect repellent?
A. Insect repellents can help reduce exposure to mosquito bites that may carry viruses such as West Nile virus that can cause serious illness and even death. Using insect repellent allows you to continue to play and work outdoors with a reduced risk of mosquito bites.
Q. When should I use mosquito repellent? A. Apply repellent when you are going to be outdoors. Even if you don’t notice mosquitoes there is a good chance that they are around. Many of the mosquitoes that carry West Nile virus bite between dusk and dawn. If you are outdoors around these times of the day, it is especially important to apply repellent. In many parts of the country, there are mosquitoes that also bite during the day, and some of these mosquitoes have also been found to carry West Nile virus.
Q. How often should repellent be reapplied? A. In general you should re-apply repellent if you are being bitten by mosquitoes. Always follow the directions on the product you are using. Sweating, perspiration or getting wet may mean that you need to re-apply repellent more frequently.
Repellents containing a higher concentration (higher percentage) of active ingredient typically provide longer-lasting protection.
Q. How does mosquito repellent work?
A. Female mosquitoes bite people and animals because they need the protein found in blood to help develop their eggs. Mosquitoes are attracted to people by skin odors and carbon dioxide from breath. The active ingredients in repellents make the person unattractive for feeding. Repellents do not kill mosquitoes. Repellents are effective only at short distances from the treated surface, so you may still see mosquitoes flying nearby.
Active Ingredients (Types of Insect Repellent)
Q. Which mosquito repellents work best?
A. CDC recommends using products that have been shown to work in scientific trials and that contain active ingredients which have been registered with the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for use as insect repellents on skin or clothing. When EPA registers a repellent, they evaluate the product for efficacy and potential effects on human beings and the environment. EPA registration means that EPA does not expect a product, when used according to the instructions on the label, to cause unreasonable adverse effects to human health or the environment.
In 2000, the World Health Organization proclaimed that, due to its safety and effectiveness, Picaridin was their recommended product for repelling Malaria-carrying mosquitoes.
Of the active ingredients registered with the EPA, CDC believes that two have demonstrated a higher degree of efficacy in the peer-reviewed, scientific literature . Products containing these active ingredients typically provide longer-lasting protection than others:
Oil of lemon eucalyptus [active ingredient: p-menthane 3,8-diol (PMD)], a plant- based repellent, is also registered with EPA. In two recent scientific publications, when oil of lemon eucalyptus was tested against mosquitoes found in the US it provided protection similar to repellents with low concentrations of DEET.
Plant based repellents are skin-friendly and perform well.
Q. How does the percentage of active ingredient in a product relate to the amount of protection it gives?
A. Typically, the more active ingredient a product contains the longer it provides protection from mosquito bites. The concentration of different active ingredients cannot be directly compared (that is, 10% concentration of one product doesn’t mean it works exactly the same as 10% concentration of another product.)
DEET is an effective active ingredient found in many repellent products and in a variety of formulations. Based on a 2002 study (Fradin and Day, 2002.)
• A product containing 23.8% DEET provided an average of 5 hours of protection from mosquito bites.
• A product containing 20% DEET provided almost 4 hours of protection
• A product with 6.65% DEET provided almost 2 hours of protection
• Products with 4.75% DEET were both able to provide roughly 1 and a half hour of protection.
Deet Repellent wipes are easy to keep on hand for surprise mosquito attacks
These examples represent results from only one study and are only included to provide a general idea of how such products may work. Actual protection will vary widely based on conditions such as temperature, perspiration, and water exposure.
Choose a repellent that provides protection for the amount of time that you will be outdoors. A product with a higher percentage of active ingredient is a good choice if you will be outdoors for several hours while a product with a lower concentration can be used if time outdoors will be limited. Simply re-apply repellent (following label instructions) if you are outdoors for a longer time than expected and start to be bitten by mosquitoes.
Q. Why does CDC recommend certain types of insect repellent?
A. CDC recommends products containing active ingredients which have been registered with US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for use as insect repellents on skin or clothing.
All of the EPA-registered active ingredients have demonstrated repellency however some provide more longerlasting protection than others. Additional research reviewed by CDC suggests that repellents containing DEET (N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide) or picaridin (KBR 3023) typically provide longer-lasting protection than the other products and oil of lemon eucalyptus (p-menthane-3,8-diol) provides longer lasting protection than other plant-based repellents. Permethrin is another long-lasting repellent that is intended for application to clothing and gear, but not directly to skin. In general, the more active ingredient (higher concentration) a repellent contains, the longer time it protects against mosquito bites.
People who are concerned about using repellents may wish to consult their health care provider for advice. The National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) can also provide information through a toll-free number, 1-800-858-7378 or npic.orst.edu
Permethrin based repellents are applied to clothing, shoes and gear (not skin) and last up to two weeks. Because it bonds with fabric, it survives repeated washings. Professionals who work outdoors rely on these products.
Q. How can you know which active ingredient a product contains?
A. Check the product label if you have questions-–repellents must specify their active ingredients. In some cases you will note the chemical name in addition to/instead of the “common” name:
• DEET is N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide
• Picaridin is KBR 3023, sometimes known as “Bayrepel” outside the US
• The active ingredient in oil of lemon eucalyptus is p-menthane 3,8-diol (PMD)
Q. What is permethrin?
A. Certain products which contain permethrin are recommended for use on clothing, shoes, bed nets, and camping gear, and are registered with EPA for this use. Permethrin is highly effective as an insecticide and as a repellent. Permethrin-treated clothing repels and kills ticks, mosquitoes, and other arthropods and retains this effect after repeated laundering. The permethrin insecticide should be reapplied following the label instructions. Some commercial products are available pretreated with permethrin.
Protect yourself from Lymes disease and the horror of finding one of these guys attached to your skin by treating your clothing, shoes and gear (not skin) with Permethrin based repellents.
Q. Where can I find these repellents?
A. Shepherd & Schaller Sporting Goods has Deet, Permethrin and Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus repellents in stock in Downtown Wausau, Wisconsin and online at www.shepssports.com.
Q. What are some general considerations to remember when using insect repellents?
A. Always follow the recommendations appearing on the product label.
• Use enough repellent to cover exposed skin or clothing. Don’t apply repellent to skin that is under clothing. Heavy application is not necessary to achieve protection.
• Do not apply repellent to cuts, wounds, or irritated skin.
• After returning indoors, wash treated skin with soap and water. (This may vary depending on the product. Check the label.)
• Do not spray aerosol or pump products in enclosed areas.
• Do not spray aerosol or pump products directly to your face. Spray your hands and then rub them carefully over the face, avoiding eyes and mouth.
Q. What are some reactions to be aware of when using insect repellents?
A. Use of repellents products may cause skin reactions in rare cases. Most products also note that eye irritation can occur if product gets in the eye. If you suspect a reaction to a product, discontinue use, wash the treated skin, and call a poison control center. If product gets in the eyes flush with water and consult health care provider or poison control center. If you go to a doctor, take the product with you.
There is a national number to reach a Poison Control Center near you: 1-800-222-1222.
Children
Q. Can insect repellents be used on children?
A. Repellent products must state any age restriction. If there is none, EPA has not required a restriction on the use of the product.
According to the label, oil of lemon eucalyptus products should NOT be used on CHILDREN UNDER 3 YEARS.
In addition to EPA’s decisions about use of products on children, many consumers also look to the opinion of the American Academy of Pediatrics (AAP). The AAP does have an opinion on the use of DEET in children (see below). AAP has not yet issued specific recommendations or opinion concerning the use of picaridin or oil of lemon eucalyptus for children. CDC will post a link to such information from the Academy when/if it becomes available.
Since it is the most widely available repellent, many people ask about the use of products containing DEET on children. No definitive studies exist in the scientific literature about what concentration of DEET is safe for children. No serious illness has been linked to the use of DEET in children when used according to manufacturer’s recommendations.
The American Academy of Pediatrics (AAP) Committee on Environmental Health has updated their recommendation for use of DEET products on children in 2003, citing: “Insect repellents containing DEET (N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, also known as N,N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide) with a concentration of 10% appear to be as safe as products with a concentration of 30% when used according to the directions on the product labels.” AAP recommends that repellents with DEET should not be used on infants less than 2 months old. Parents should choose the type and concentration of repellent to be used by taking into account the amount of time that a child will be outdoors, exposure to mosquitoes, and the risk of mosquito-transmitted disease in the area.
If you are concerned about using repellent products on children you may wish to consult a health care provider for advice or contact the National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) through their toll-free number, 1-800-858-7378 or npic.orst.edu
Q. What guidelines are available for using a repellent on children?
A. Always follow the recommendations appearing on the product label when using repellent:
• When using repellent on a child, apply it to your own hands and then rub them on your child. Avoid children’s eyes and mouth and use it sparingly around their ears.
• Do not apply repellent to children’s hands. (Children may tend to put their hands in their mouths.)
• Do not allow young children to apply insect repellent to themselves; have an adult do it for them.
• Keep repellents out of reach of children.
• Do not apply repellent under clothing. If repellent is applied to clothing, wash treated clothing before wearing again. (May vary by product, check label for specific instructions.)
Q. How else can I protect children from mosquito bites?
A. Using repellents on the skin is not the only way to avoid mosquito bites. Children (and adults) can wear clothing with long pants and long sleeves while outdoors. DEET or other repellents such as permethrin can also be applied to clothing (but is not registered for use on skin), as mosquitoes may bite through thin fabric. Mosquito netting can be used over infant carriers. Finally, it may be possible to reduce the number of mosquitoes in the area by getting rid of containers with standing water that provide breeding places for mosquitoes.
Q. Can insect repellents be used by pregnant or nursing women?
A. Other than the routine precautions noted earlier, EPA does not recommend any additional precautions for using registered repellents on pregnant or lactating women. Consult your health care provider if you have questions.
Insect Repellents containing DEET and Sunscreen
Q. Can I use an insect repellent and a product containing sunscreen at the same time? What are the recomendations for combination sunscreen/insect repellent products ?
A. Yes. People can, and should, use both a sunscreen and an insect repellent when they are outdoors. Follow the instructions on the package for proper application of each product. In general, the recommendation is to apply sunscreen first, followed by repellent.
It is recommended NOT to use a single product that combines insect repellent containing DEET and sunscreen, because the instructions for use of insect repellents and use of sunscreen are different. In most situations, insect repellent does not need to be reapplied as frequently as sunscreen. While no recommendations are available at this time regarding products that combine other active ingredients and sunscreen, it is important to always follow the label on whatever product you are using.
To protect from sun exposure and insect bites, you can also wear long sleeves and long pants. You can also apply insect repellent to your clothing, rather than directly to your skin.
More Information
Q. Where can I get more information about repellents?
A. For more information about using repellents, please consult the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) Web site or consult the National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC), which is cooperatively sponsored by Oregon State University and the U.S. EPA. NPIC can be reached at: npic.orst.eduor 1-800-858-7378.
Hand-made Pocket Discs are family friendly, colorful, safe and fun. Indoor disc golf is just one way to play, but there are all kinds of games to try. Use them at Wausau’s 400 Block Park, at your favorite disc golf course, your yard or even indoors. Just be prepared for the attention they draw!
The Pocket Disc Story
Savanna Groft, a third grader at the time, was assigned a project at school. Her teacher asked her to crochet a round placemat as part of her handwork studies. Savanna’s initial efforts yielded a round disk, but because she had not added enough stitches, the disc curled under forming a small lip. This placemat of sorts sat on a table for over a year until a family friend, Chris Larsen, came over, and threw it. The placemat sailed across the living room and the Pocket Disc was born.
Phd Productions (P-H-D = Perfectly Harmless Device) was formed with the intention of making more flying discs. Because co-founders Chris Larsen and Patrick Groft wanted not only to make Pocket Discs but also to make a difference, they searched for a fair trade women’s cooperative to begin production of the discs. They found what they were looking for in the impoverished country of Guatemala.
The Mayas of Guatemala have been weaving and crocheting bright patterns for centuries
Fair Trade is good for everyone. These artists in Guatemala make beautiful Pocket Discs.
and bring a deep cultural talent for handwork to the Pocket Discs. Each village specializes in a few patterns. The patterns of a village are passed down with the generations. Through a veteran importer, Phd Productions found cooperatives of Guatemalan women to produce Pocket Discs.
In return for the amazing artistry that these women add to the Pocket Disc, the women are paid fairly and work under good conditions. Phd Productions is a member of the Fair Trade Federation and follows the Federation’s guidelines to ensure proper treatment of its workers.
The money they make crocheting Pocket Discs and other hand-made products enables their children to go to school and helps keeps them out of poverty in a country in which 56% of people now live below the poverty level. The village of San Pablo, where many of our artisans live, has one of the highest rates of malnutrition in Guatemala, which as a country has the second highest rate of malnutrition in the western hemisphere, after Haiti.
Due to its versatility, the Pocket Disc has universal appeal from professional disc golfers to elementary school PE teachers. And they’re pretty!
Here’s a list of parks to try out your new Pocket Disc in Marathon County, WI:
The experts at Patagonia® have fabric care and stain removal (not to mention environmentalism and corporate responsibility) notched. Visit their site or read on, and never fear gum, chocolate, red wine or the washing machine again!
Alcohol Denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol are degreasing agents that work best as spot cleaners, removing surface soils that aren’t affected by soap or detergent. Denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol will safely remove stains from many fabrics. Use to remove ink or sap. Do not use on acetate, rayon, wool or silk.
To remove stubborn stains, moisten a cotton ball or cotton cloth with a few drops of denatured alcohol. Test the alcohol first on an inconspicuous part of the garment and allow the fabric to dry. If there is no discoloration, wet a second cotton ball and rub the stain, but
International laundry symbols. Your garment label may be different.
do not saturate the fabric. Allow to dry. Using a toothbrush on woven fabrics is okay, clean the stain with a drop of dishwashing detergent and scrub until the stain disappears. Rinse the garment in warm water and blot dry with a clean towel.
Ballpoint Pen At the root of many bad days is a leaky ballpoint pen. Whisk away those heartbreaking stains with either denatured alcohol (found in the paint department of most home stores), isopropyl alcohol or lemon juice. Stubborn stains require persistence, so don’t quit after one attempt. First, test an inconspicuous part of the garment to ensure the color doesn’t change. Start by wetting a cotton ball or cloth with a few drops of alcohol or lemon juice and blotting a small area. Allow the fabric to dry. If there’s no discoloration, wet a second cotton ball and blot the stain. Use dry cotton balls to absorb the ink stain until the cotton ball no longer wicks ink from the fabric. Allow the garment to dry. Next, use a toothbrush and clean the stain with a drop of dishwashing detergent; scrub until the stain disappears. Rinse the garment in warm water, then blot dry with a clean towel.
Beer With a few simple steps you can easily remove beer stains, and no one will know how you spent the night after you first climbed Yosemite’s Astro Man. Rub a solution of vinegar and warm water into the stain, then wash as directed by the garment care tag.
Blood If possible, immediately rinse blood stains from fabric with cold water. Follow the rinse with an extended soak in salt water. If the blood has dried, try soaking the garment in a solution of ammonia and water before washing as directed by the garment care tag. Do not use hot water; hot water will set stain permanently.
Blueberries One of the rewards of alpine bouldering is picking incredibly tart blueberries along the way. Remove blueberry stains by soaking the stained garment in buttermilk or lemon juice. Rinse thoroughly with cool water, then rinse again with warm water.
Butter Great on toast, not on clothes. Still, butter bloopers abound as do stain removal techniques. We like the simplest approach: Remove all excess butter and treat the stain with a grease-cutting dishwashing detergent. Launder as usual. You can also make a paste of powdered laundry detergent and water. Rub the paste on the stain, let it sit for 30 minutes, and wash as directed.
Capilene® Machine wash Patagonia Capilene® garments in cool to warm water with a mild, powdered laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred). Line dry or tumble dry on low heat. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact).
To remove grease, first try washing the garment by hand with a good liquid dishwashing detergent, rather than machine washing it with a powdered laundry detergent. If the grease persists, rub the stain with a cotton ball or cotton cloth dampened with a few drops of denatured or isopropyl alcohol (found in the paint section of most home stores) to break up the grease, then wash as directed by the garment care tag.
Cashmere Wash cashmere by hand in cool water. Use mild shampoo or liquid dishwashing detergent with a pH level below 7. If you use powdered laundry detergent that requires warm water to dissolve, let the water cool before adding your garment. Let the garment soak quietly in the basin or gently swish the garment, but don’t agitate, twist or rub it. After soaking, rinse with fresh water until the water runs clear. Gently squeeze excess water from the garment.
Air-dry a cashmere garment by laying it flat on a dry towel and stretching it to the correct size and shape before drying. You can remove stains from cashmere by spot-washing with a natural stain remover like vinegar or lemon juice. (Test in an inconspicuous place first).
Chocolate Chocolate goes well with most anything (we think it tastes best after a long, untracked powder run), but not with clothing. Start by scraping away as much of the stain as possible. Next, immerse the stained portion of the garment in milk or in a mixture of egg yoke and denatured alcohol for a few minutes until the stain starts to lift. Finish by washing the garment with warm soapy water.
Coffee Coffee fuels a pre-dawn alpine start or a late night drive across Nevada, but spill it down your shirt and you’ll have a different kind of wake-up call. To remove coffee stains, start by blotting up the excess with a clean cloth. Mix a solution of one quart warm water, one-half teaspoon detergent and one tablespoon white vinegar and soak the stain for 15 minutes. Rinse well with water. Blot the stain with denatured or isopropyl alcohol and then wash in warm, soapy water.
Cotton Wash your organic cotton gear in cool to warm water with mild laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and dry it on the line if possible. You may also use a dryer on a low-heat setting. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact).
Deluge® DWR A DWR or durable water repellent finish keeps moisture from saturating the outer fabric of your garment. Our proprietary Deluge® DWR finish lasts substantially longer than standard DWRs, but still requires proper care for optimal performance.
If water no longer beads up on your shell, it’s time to put on another coat of DWR finish. We recommend replenishing the DWR once per season, or more often if the garment receives frequent use and washing. Our favorites are Nikwax® products, though there are many good products on the market.
Whatever you choose, be sure to use a spray-on for 2-layer garments (with a hanging mesh liner) and a wash-in for 3-layer garments (with an interior fabric protecting the barrier).
Down Insulation Wash your down garment in cold water in a front-loading machine with a gentle detergent. You can find specific detergents made specifically for washing down items. Machine dry on no to low heat (may take a few cycles) with two to three clean tennis balls added to the dryer to restore fluff. DO NOT bleach, iron or use fabric softener.
Dry Cleaning Given the rumpled nature of the road trips that inspire so much of our gear, Patagonia doesn’t make anything that requires dry cleaning. Our clothes are made to be worn and washed with very little fuss. More importantly, the EPA estimates that 85% of the dry cleaners in America use perchloroethylene, or “perc,” to clean garments and textile products. This chemical solvent has significant human and environmental risks. We make clothes that wear and perform beautifully without all that. (This is true of most brands and products we stock at Shepherd & Schaller.)
Fabric Conditioner Generally we don’t recommend using fabric conditioners or softeners on our products. They can cause seam slippage in clothing with open-weave construction, and can decrease overall durability. (At Shep’s we know they also block fabric pores, reducing breathability of waterproof/breathable garments too.)
Felt-Tipped Pen Stains from a felt-tipped pen want to stay put, so don’t be discouraged if your first attempts to remove them are unsuccessful. Try blotting (not rubbing) the stain gently with a cotton ball or clean cotton cloth dampened with a few drops of denatured or isopropyl alcohol (this may take several tries). Test the alcohol first in an inconspicuous part of the garment and allow the fabric to dry. If there’s no discoloration, wet a second cotton ball and blot the stain, but do not saturate the fabric. Allow to dry. Using a toothbrush, clean the stain with a drop of dishwashing detergent and scrub until the stain has disappeared. Rinse the garment in warm water and blot the fabric dry with a towel.
Flammability Like most synthetics, our shells, fleece and Capilene® fabrics will melt or burn if exposed to flame or direct heat. They are not flame resistant; do not use them near ANY direct source of heat or flame.
Gladiodor® Garment Odor Control Odor control has become de rigueur for technical knits in the outdoor clothing marketplace. Patagonia Gladiodor garment odor control is our solution. Gladiodor treatments are thoroughly tested for functionality, initially and after washing. To pass our lab testing, the treatment must be effective even after 50 washes.
We recommend washing garments that feature Gladiodor garment odor control in cold or warm water with mild laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and dry it on a clothesline if possible. You can also use a dryer on a low heat setting. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact).
GORE-TEX® Fabrics GORE-TEX® fabrics will provide optimal performance if kept clean and free from dirt, sunscreen, oils from skin and perspiration.
Machine-wash GORE-TEX® garments in warm water (104º F/40º C) using a mild powdered or liquid detergent. Make sure to rinse garments well to remove all of the detergent. Don’t use a fabric softener.
Tumble dry on a warm setting. The dryer’s warmth helps renew the fabric’s durable water repellent (DWR) finish, which keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated in wet conditions.
If water no longer beads up on the garment, it’s time to put on another coat of DWR finish. We recommend replenishing the DWR finish once per season, or more often if the garment receives frequent use and washing. Our favorites are Nikwax® products, though there are many good products on the market. Whatever you choose, be sure to use a spray-on for all garments made from GORE-TEX® fabric.
To remove grease from a garment, dampen the stain and rub in dishwashing detergent. Then wash the jacket in warm water with plenty of mild laundry detergent. If the stain persists, sponge it with a safe cleaning fluid (Renuzit® or Carbona®) or mineral spirits, which can be found at most markets or home improvement stores.
To get gum or sap off of a garment, first freeze the sap or gum with some ice, then use a dull butter knife to scrape off as much as you can. Next, soak the garment in a water/white-vinegar solution, and machine wash with warm water and detergent.
Grease Whether you’re working in the shop or commuting on your bike every morning, there’s a good chance you and your clothes will come into contact with some type of grease.
Luckily, grease comes out of fabrics quite easily. Simply washing your garment in warm, soapy water with a liquid dishwashing detergent will usually remove the stain. If that doesn’t work, try blotting the stain with isopropyl or denatured alcohol before washing in warm, soapy water.
Gum It keeps blown rivets from swamping your boat, patches a hole in your waterbottle and keeps your mouth moist as you launch into the crux lead. But if you get gum stuck on your clothing, it may want to stick around for awhile. You can remove it by freezing or cooling it until it hardens. Then brush or scrape the gum from the fabric. If necessary, use a cotton ball or cotton cloth moistened with a few drops of denatured or isopropyl alcohol. Wash with warm soapy water.
H2No® fabrics It’s important to keep your Patagonia H2No® garment clean for optimal performance. Wash any H2No® garment in a washing machine in warm water (104º F/40º C) using a mild detergent. Make sure you rinse the garment well to remove all of the detergent. Don’t use a fabric softener.
Tumble dry on a warm setting. The dryer’s warmth helps renew the jacket’s durable water repellent (DWR) finish, which keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated when you’re in wet conditions.
If water no longer beads up on your garment, it’s time to put on another coat of DWR finish. We recommend replenishing the DWR finish once per season, or more often if the garment receives frequent use and washing. Our favorites are Nikwax® products, though there are many good products on the market. Whatever you choose, be sure to use a spray-on for two-layer garments (with a hanging mesh liner) or a wash-in for three-layer garments (with an interior fabric protecting the barrier).
To remove grease from an H2No® jacket, dampen the stain and rub in dishwashing liquid. Then wash the jacket in warm water with plenty of mild powder laundry detergent. If the stain persists, sponge it with a safe cleaning fluid (Renuzit® or Carbona®) or mineral spirits; you can find both at your local grocery store.
To get gum or sap out of a garment, first freeze the sap with some ice, then use a dull butter knife to scrape off as much as you can. Next, soak the garment in a water/white-vinegar solution, and machine wash with warm water and detergent.
Hemp Wash any garment made from hemp in cold or warm water with mild laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and dry it on a clothesline if possible. You may also use a dryer on a low heat setting. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact).
Ink Whisk away those heartbreaking stains with either denatured or isopropyl alcohol or lemon juice. Start by wetting a cotton ball or cotton cloth with a few drops of alcohol or lemon juice and rubbing an inconspicuous part of the garment. Allow the fabric to dry. If there’s no discoloration, wet a second cotton ball and rub the stain, but do not over saturate the fabric. Allow to dry. Using a toothbrush, clean the stain with a drop of dishwashing detergent and scrub until the stain disappears. Rinse the garment in warm water and blot the fabric dry with a clean towel.
Ironing In general, Patagonia garments do not require ironing. However, if you’re trying to make a good impression on “the parents” and you want to sharpen the crease down the front of your pants after an afternoon of bouldering, you should check the iron symbol on the care label of your garment first to make sure it can be safely ironed. If the iron symbol has a line through it – don’t iron. The dots on the label correspond to how much heat you should use – fewer dots mean less heat.
Lambswool Wash lambswool garments by hand in cool water with a bit of dishwashing liquid. Let the garment soak in the basin — don’t agitate the water, twist, rub or wring out the garment. Then rinse with fresh water until the water runs clear. Gently squeeze out excess water.
Air-dry your lambswool garment by laying it flat on a dry towel and stretching it to the correct size and shape before drying.
You can clean up stains on lambswool by spot-washing with a natural stain remover like white vinegar or lemon juice (test in an inconspicuous place first).
Merino Wool Baselayer Merino’s odor-resistant properties allow you to wear your garment multiple times between washings (ideal for road trips). That said, when even your dog refuses to share your sleeping bag, machine wash your merino baselayer in cold water. Tumble dry on low temperature, or dry flat to save energy and reduce environmental impact.
Merino Wool/Nylon/Polyester/Spandex Blends We blend fibers to provide comfort, moisture-wicking, stretch and long-term durability. Fiber blends withstand wear for a long life and resist odor, so you’ll still have friends when you’ve finished your trail run.
Machine wash fabric blends in cold water and tumble dry on low temperature (or hang them out the window on the drive between Bishop and Tuolumne).
Nylon and Nylon/Spandex Machine wash nylon garments in cool to warm water with a mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred). Line or tumble dry on low heat.
Oil If you find yourself under the car or truck on a long road trip for any reason, you might end up with oil in places where it doesn’t belong. Luckily, oil cleans out of fabrics quite easily. Washing your garment in warm, soapy water using a liquid detergent will usually remove the stain. If that doesn’t work, try blotting the stain with denatured or isopropyl alcohol (if the stain is stubborn) before washing in warm, soapy water.
Organic Cotton and Organic Cotton/Nylon/Spandex/Tencel® Lyocell Blends Wash in cool to warm water with mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred) and line dry or tumble dry on low heat.
Pine Sap If during a road trip you find some part of yourself or your gear covered with pine sap, grab some butter patties from the coffee shop. Work the butter into your tar, resin and grease stains. The stain should scrape off once the butter has soaked into the fabric. Wash with warm, soapy water to remove the butter and voila.
Polartec® Powershield® Pro Clean your Polartec® Powershield® Pro garment in a front-loading washer with cold water (85º F/30º C) and a mild detergent. Tumble dry on low heat to improve DWR (durable water repellent) finish performance. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact).
Polyester Wash polyester in warm water in a machine set to Permanent Press. Use a mild laundry soap (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and line dry if possible. You may also use a dryer on a low heat setting, just make sure to remove it from the dryer quickly to prevent wrinkling.
To remove stains from polyester, try a few drops of dishwashing liquid directly on the stain and rub until the stain starts to lift. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Polyester Mesh Machine wash your polyester mesh fabric in warm water on the “permanent press” setting. Use a mild powdered laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and dry it on a clothesline if possible.
To remove stains from polyester mesh fabrics, try a few drops of dishwashing liquid directly on the stain and rub until the stain starts to lift. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Polyester/Nylon Blends, Polyester/Spandex Blends and Polyester/Nylon/Spandex Blends Machine wash your polyester or polyester blend garments in warm water on the “permanent press” setting. Use a mild powdered laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and line dry, or tumble dry on low heat. (Remove it from the dryer quickly to prevent wrinkling).
To remove stains, try a few drops of dishwashing liquid directly on the stain and rub until the stain starts to lift. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Polyester/Organic Cotton Blends Wash your polyester/organic cotton blend in cool to warm water with mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred) line dry, or tumble dry on low heat.
PrimaLoft® Insulation Machine wash your Primaloft® garment with a mild detergent on a gentle, cold-water cycle. Tumble dry on low or line dry.
Recycled Polyester Machine wash polyester in warm water on the ”permanent press” setting. Use a mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred) and dry it on a clothesline if possible. You may also use a dryer on a low heat setting, just make sure to remove it from the dryer quickly to prevent wrinkling.
To remove stains from polyester, try a few drops of dishwashing liquid directly on the stain and rub until the stain starts to lift. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Recycled Nylon Machine wash your recycled nylon garments in cool to warm water with a mild powdered laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred). Line dry or tumble dry on low heat.
Red Wine Act as quickly as possible. Apply a solution of two cups water, a tablespoon of vinegar and a tablespoon of liquid detergent. If that doesn’t work, apply a solution of hydrogen peroxide, detergent and water. Blot with a clean dry cloth. Once the stain is out, launder per garment-care label.
If the stain does not come out, pour yourself another glass of red wine and forget about it.
Regulator® Insulation Machine wash your Regulator® Insulation in cool to warm water with a mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred). Dry by hanging on a clothesline or in the dryer on a low heat setting. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impacts).
To remove grease from the polyester fibers of Regulator® Insulation, first try a liquid detergent rather than a powdered one in your washing machine. If the grease persists, rub the stain with a cotton ball or cotton cloth dampened with a few drops of denatured alcohol (found in the paint section of most home stores) to break up the grease, then wash as normal.
UPF Fabrics Lacking fur, feathers or scales, we humans have to think up clever ways to protect ourselves from the sun. Products with a UPF designation provide built-in sun protection that won’t wear off.
Elements of the sun-protection strategy can range from yarn selection to fabric construction to the use of special finishes (especially for light colors). To launder fabrics with a UPF rating, simply wash in cold water and tumble dry low (or line dry to reduce environmental impact).
Washing Instructions Washing instructions are printed on a white tag inside our garments. Following these instructions will help your gear have a long, interesting life. In general, washing your gear in cold or warm water with mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred) and drying it on a clothesline are the best ways to clean Patagonia® products. Shepherd & Schaller reminds you to always consult the washing instructions on any garment. Failure to follow instructions may void any available warranty.
Water-repellency Replenishing Most waterproof/breathable shells on the market are originally treated with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish, which keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated so that the breathable barrier can do its job. This coating needs to be replenished once a season, or more often if the piece sees a lot of use. If water no longer beads up on your shell, it’s time for another finish. Our favorites are Nikwax® products, though there are many good products on the market. Whatever you choose, be sure to use a spray-on for 2-layer garments with a hanging mesh liner and a wash-in for 3-layer garments with an interior fabric protecting the barrier (Use only spray-on products on garments made with GORE-TEX® fabric).
May brings fresh new reasons to celebrate. Is there a graduate in your life? A wedding on the calendar? Mothers Day, a birthday, or simply that the sun is shining? Treat yourself and the special ones in your life while treating yourself to savings. Present this coupon image on your smartphone when you visit us in-store through May 30th, 2013.
