What does and doesn’t qualify a Snowboard or Ski for warranty? How, why, when?
First, thank you for shopping at Shepherd & Schaller. Know that Ski and Snowboard manufacturers are diligent about their product design and construction, and it’s rare that the ski and snowboard equipment we sell suffers a defect, but when it does, our Warranty Manager will work with the manufacturer who will answer the question “Does this qualify for warranty coverage?” Then, following the manufacturer’s instruction, we will handle your warranty claim. We are usually required to provide them with a photo of the gear in question and occasionally we are instructed to ship it back to the manufacturer for further inspection. The manufacturer makes the decision. We are the middle-man in the process, happy to help.
How will you know when a warranty is likely? When is it worth pursuing? We’re sharing a post from the fine folks at MichiganBoarder.com which colorfully provides some answers. They speak the truth, which can be difficult to explain and sometimes hard to hear. Their explanation for snowboards can generally be transferred to skis as well.
We’re grateful that you shopped at Shepherd & Schaller and we are here to assist you with the warranty process, so please notify us right away if your equipment seems unhealthy.
The following, which specifically addresses snowboard warranties, was posted by BennyWest on MichiganBoarder.com on March 4, 2016. Stop here if you are sensitive to colorful language, including profanity.
Look, a lot of us have been there, disappointed in the longevity of our new whip. Before I get into this article I just want to clarify this isn’t about anyone in particular. It has been an odd year at my store and the kids are really putting a beating on their decks. I’m not upset with any of my kids or the brands. I love you little monsters with all my heart. A big shout out to our brands too because they have gone above and beyond; another reason to shop at a store with doors. That online retailor isn’t going to do shit for you.
So you broke your board and you want it warrantied. Why did it break? Was it made poorly? Is it the brand’s fault you’re a grown ass man on a 149cm gapping to flat? Is it their fault that these kids have gotten so good that folded boards are becoming more and more common? It’s not.
See the whole warranty thing from most brands covers the board if there was a mishap in its original construction. By “mishap” I mean the glue didn’t cure and there is a delamination or the edge is coming out RANDOMLY, or the die cut graphics on the base are falling out, and sometimes, even when the board snaps in a weird spot because the wood inside was sub par. I mean shit like that, a MANUFACTURING problem. A warranty covers something going wrong with the board because somewhere down the line there was a faulty build material or a mistake in the build. That’s what is covered. No more, no less. The tech and build processes that go into snowboards have got so precise that a true warranty is getting extremely rare. The companies say their board will last X (usually 1 or 2) amount of years from normal snowboarding. What normal snowboarding entails is riding the fucker down the hill and not touching anything but snow. I cannot stress this enough, your board being damaged from any contact with a solid object is not a warranty. That’s right, any damage from riding rails, hitting a rock, and landing tail or nose heavy on your deck is NOT A WARRANTY.
NOT A WARRANTY
Now, this is a conundrum because all these brands make boards specifically geared toward the specific misuse of said board and violation of said warranty. You know what I am saying? You buy your deck and that sticker on the back shows how great it is on rails or jumps or in the backcountry. How does that work? Well, I will come back to that.
I ‘ve concluded that there are four types of reasons your board is broke.
Somewhere along the build process a shitty material or a fuck up in the build caused your deck to break in one way or another. This is legit; your shop will dial you in. I do mean shop. *side note, if you buy your gear online you don’t care about snowboarding. I don’t care if it’s cheaper. Any shop will price match. Don’t come to us when the boots you bought online don’t fit and you’re heading up north tomorrow. Actually we will help you because we love you but we will talk shit about you when you leave.
You’re abusing your deck and being a slap dick with your friends being all “I don’t give a fuck” and intentionally beating your shit up only to turn around and show your boys how gnarly you were and your deck is broke. When you do this you’re giving a bad image to a normally very well respected brand. You’re hurting their reputation all to massage your ego.
You are snowboarding above your level. What this means is you’re good. So good it’s time for you to step up to bigger shit. When I made the comment above about brands making decks that are specifically designed to void the warranty; this is where that comment has weight. Dan Brisse can go huge and his board takes what he dishes out and then over time it’s had too much and finally dies. Pro boards actually go quite a long ways. I’m talking a majority of the season if not more. Now why is that? They are doing this super heavy shit, but their boards don’t break. It’s because they’re doing it cleaner and have the science of things locked up. If you are mounting your rail tricks right and stomping your jumps the board can actually deal with the abuse. If you’re not quite there and you’re dinging your lip slides and not going fast enough gapping out to stuff it will break.
Likely a warranty
You’re a monster. You are Frank April and you are doing stuff so big that the board can’t handle it. Congrats, but if you are that good you need to keep in mind that pros get free snowboards and you don’t. Does that mean dial it back? Absolutely not, what that means is it’s a cost of doing business. You want to go hard on shit you’re gonna break boards and you need to understand that you will have to pony up some coin.
There is not a lot board brands can do to beef up their boards beyond what they’ve done already. If you want a fun park board with a softer flex it’s not gonna be bullet proof. You want a bulletproof deck? Buy a Never Summer and ride that 2×8 down the hill cursing the board all the way to the ATM machine. It is what it is. You can’t have your cake and eat it too.
The other thing is… don’t be a tough guy and “finish” your deck. If you have a legitimate odd ball break send the board back. Putting your foot in the crack and breaking it is just pretty much throwing you chance at a warranty right out the window. If you got a box in your Subaru full of freshies than by all means, but again you bring that in to a shop all decapitated and it’s over.
I can’t speak for other shops, but I can say the brands we carry go out of their way to make it right with the customer. Core shops have relationships with the reps and the brands and are usually able to do something for you. Shops like the ones I speak of carry boards from brands that are snowboarder owned and operated. They know what it’s like to be bummed on a deck and I promise they don’t want that for you. When you’re cursing whatever brand to your friends. Remember, you either ride a bulletproof plank that is the equivalent of riding a picnic table on it’s back down the hill or you ride that damn-nice very well built park deck. Also, I recommend stepping up from the four hundred dollar range; a lot of pro models have that extra tech in them that adds a few seasons to that life span. Or perhaps in your case it will get you through the season… ha ha! Come on guys give your local shop a break… whooo whah! Don’t judge me.
The experts at Patagonia® have fabric care and stain removal (not to mention environmentalism and corporate responsibility) notched. Visit their site or read on, and never fear gum, chocolate, red wine or the washing machine again!
Alcohol Denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol are degreasing agents that work best as spot cleaners, removing surface soils that aren’t affected by soap or detergent. Denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol will safely remove stains from many fabrics. Use to remove ink or sap. Do not use on acetate, rayon, wool or silk.
To remove stubborn stains, moisten a cotton ball or cotton cloth with a few drops of denatured alcohol. Test the alcohol first on an inconspicuous part of the garment and allow the fabric to dry. If there is no discoloration, wet a second cotton ball and rub the stain, but
International laundry symbols. Your garment label may be different.
do not saturate the fabric. Allow to dry. Using a toothbrush on woven fabrics is okay, clean the stain with a drop of dishwashing detergent and scrub until the stain disappears. Rinse the garment in warm water and blot dry with a clean towel.
Ballpoint Pen At the root of many bad days is a leaky ballpoint pen. Whisk away those heartbreaking stains with either denatured alcohol (found in the paint department of most home stores), isopropyl alcohol or lemon juice. Stubborn stains require persistence, so don’t quit after one attempt. First, test an inconspicuous part of the garment to ensure the color doesn’t change. Start by wetting a cotton ball or cloth with a few drops of alcohol or lemon juice and blotting a small area. Allow the fabric to dry. If there’s no discoloration, wet a second cotton ball and blot the stain. Use dry cotton balls to absorb the ink stain until the cotton ball no longer wicks ink from the fabric. Allow the garment to dry. Next, use a toothbrush and clean the stain with a drop of dishwashing detergent; scrub until the stain disappears. Rinse the garment in warm water, then blot dry with a clean towel.
Beer With a few simple steps you can easily remove beer stains, and no one will know how you spent the night after you first climbed Yosemite’s Astro Man. Rub a solution of vinegar and warm water into the stain, then wash as directed by the garment care tag.
Blood If possible, immediately rinse blood stains from fabric with cold water. Follow the rinse with an extended soak in salt water. If the blood has dried, try soaking the garment in a solution of ammonia and water before washing as directed by the garment care tag. Do not use hot water; hot water will set stain permanently.
Blueberries One of the rewards of alpine bouldering is picking incredibly tart blueberries along the way. Remove blueberry stains by soaking the stained garment in buttermilk or lemon juice. Rinse thoroughly with cool water, then rinse again with warm water.
Butter Great on toast, not on clothes. Still, butter bloopers abound as do stain removal techniques. We like the simplest approach: Remove all excess butter and treat the stain with a grease-cutting dishwashing detergent. Launder as usual. You can also make a paste of powdered laundry detergent and water. Rub the paste on the stain, let it sit for 30 minutes, and wash as directed.
Capilene® Machine wash Patagonia Capilene® garments in cool to warm water with a mild, powdered laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred). Line dry or tumble dry on low heat. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact).
To remove grease, first try washing the garment by hand with a good liquid dishwashing detergent, rather than machine washing it with a powdered laundry detergent. If the grease persists, rub the stain with a cotton ball or cotton cloth dampened with a few drops of denatured or isopropyl alcohol (found in the paint section of most home stores) to break up the grease, then wash as directed by the garment care tag.
Cashmere Wash cashmere by hand in cool water. Use mild shampoo or liquid dishwashing detergent with a pH level below 7. If you use powdered laundry detergent that requires warm water to dissolve, let the water cool before adding your garment. Let the garment soak quietly in the basin or gently swish the garment, but don’t agitate, twist or rub it. After soaking, rinse with fresh water until the water runs clear. Gently squeeze excess water from the garment.
Air-dry a cashmere garment by laying it flat on a dry towel and stretching it to the correct size and shape before drying. You can remove stains from cashmere by spot-washing with a natural stain remover like vinegar or lemon juice. (Test in an inconspicuous place first).
Chocolate Chocolate goes well with most anything (we think it tastes best after a long, untracked powder run), but not with clothing. Start by scraping away as much of the stain as possible. Next, immerse the stained portion of the garment in milk or in a mixture of egg yoke and denatured alcohol for a few minutes until the stain starts to lift. Finish by washing the garment with warm soapy water.
Coffee Coffee fuels a pre-dawn alpine start or a late night drive across Nevada, but spill it down your shirt and you’ll have a different kind of wake-up call. To remove coffee stains, start by blotting up the excess with a clean cloth. Mix a solution of one quart warm water, one-half teaspoon detergent and one tablespoon white vinegar and soak the stain for 15 minutes. Rinse well with water. Blot the stain with denatured or isopropyl alcohol and then wash in warm, soapy water.
Cotton Wash your organic cotton gear in cool to warm water with mild laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and dry it on the line if possible. You may also use a dryer on a low-heat setting. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact).
Deluge® DWR A DWR or durable water repellent finish keeps moisture from saturating the outer fabric of your garment. Our proprietary Deluge® DWR finish lasts substantially longer than standard DWRs, but still requires proper care for optimal performance.
If water no longer beads up on your shell, it’s time to put on another coat of DWR finish. We recommend replenishing the DWR once per season, or more often if the garment receives frequent use and washing. Our favorites are Nikwax® products, though there are many good products on the market.
Whatever you choose, be sure to use a spray-on for 2-layer garments (with a hanging mesh liner) and a wash-in for 3-layer garments (with an interior fabric protecting the barrier).
Down Insulation Wash your down garment in cold water in a front-loading machine with a gentle detergent. You can find specific detergents made specifically for washing down items. Machine dry on no to low heat (may take a few cycles) with two to three clean tennis balls added to the dryer to restore fluff. DO NOT bleach, iron or use fabric softener.
Dry Cleaning Given the rumpled nature of the road trips that inspire so much of our gear, Patagonia doesn’t make anything that requires dry cleaning. Our clothes are made to be worn and washed with very little fuss. More importantly, the EPA estimates that 85% of the dry cleaners in America use perchloroethylene, or “perc,” to clean garments and textile products. This chemical solvent has significant human and environmental risks. We make clothes that wear and perform beautifully without all that. (This is true of most brands and products we stock at Shepherd & Schaller.)
Fabric Conditioner Generally we don’t recommend using fabric conditioners or softeners on our products. They can cause seam slippage in clothing with open-weave construction, and can decrease overall durability. (At Shep’s we know they also block fabric pores, reducing breathability of waterproof/breathable garments too.)
Felt-Tipped Pen Stains from a felt-tipped pen want to stay put, so don’t be discouraged if your first attempts to remove them are unsuccessful. Try blotting (not rubbing) the stain gently with a cotton ball or clean cotton cloth dampened with a few drops of denatured or isopropyl alcohol (this may take several tries). Test the alcohol first in an inconspicuous part of the garment and allow the fabric to dry. If there’s no discoloration, wet a second cotton ball and blot the stain, but do not saturate the fabric. Allow to dry. Using a toothbrush, clean the stain with a drop of dishwashing detergent and scrub until the stain has disappeared. Rinse the garment in warm water and blot the fabric dry with a towel.
Flammability Like most synthetics, our shells, fleece and Capilene® fabrics will melt or burn if exposed to flame or direct heat. They are not flame resistant; do not use them near ANY direct source of heat or flame.
Gladiodor® Garment Odor Control Odor control has become de rigueur for technical knits in the outdoor clothing marketplace. Patagonia Gladiodor garment odor control is our solution. Gladiodor treatments are thoroughly tested for functionality, initially and after washing. To pass our lab testing, the treatment must be effective even after 50 washes.
We recommend washing garments that feature Gladiodor garment odor control in cold or warm water with mild laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and dry it on a clothesline if possible. You can also use a dryer on a low heat setting. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact).
GORE-TEX® Fabrics GORE-TEX® fabrics will provide optimal performance if kept clean and free from dirt, sunscreen, oils from skin and perspiration.
Machine-wash GORE-TEX® garments in warm water (104º F/40º C) using a mild powdered or liquid detergent. Make sure to rinse garments well to remove all of the detergent. Don’t use a fabric softener.
Tumble dry on a warm setting. The dryer’s warmth helps renew the fabric’s durable water repellent (DWR) finish, which keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated in wet conditions.
If water no longer beads up on the garment, it’s time to put on another coat of DWR finish. We recommend replenishing the DWR finish once per season, or more often if the garment receives frequent use and washing. Our favorites are Nikwax® products, though there are many good products on the market. Whatever you choose, be sure to use a spray-on for all garments made from GORE-TEX® fabric.
To remove grease from a garment, dampen the stain and rub in dishwashing detergent. Then wash the jacket in warm water with plenty of mild laundry detergent. If the stain persists, sponge it with a safe cleaning fluid (Renuzit® or Carbona®) or mineral spirits, which can be found at most markets or home improvement stores.
To get gum or sap off of a garment, first freeze the sap or gum with some ice, then use a dull butter knife to scrape off as much as you can. Next, soak the garment in a water/white-vinegar solution, and machine wash with warm water and detergent.
Grease Whether you’re working in the shop or commuting on your bike every morning, there’s a good chance you and your clothes will come into contact with some type of grease.
Luckily, grease comes out of fabrics quite easily. Simply washing your garment in warm, soapy water with a liquid dishwashing detergent will usually remove the stain. If that doesn’t work, try blotting the stain with isopropyl or denatured alcohol before washing in warm, soapy water.
Gum It keeps blown rivets from swamping your boat, patches a hole in your waterbottle and keeps your mouth moist as you launch into the crux lead. But if you get gum stuck on your clothing, it may want to stick around for awhile. You can remove it by freezing or cooling it until it hardens. Then brush or scrape the gum from the fabric. If necessary, use a cotton ball or cotton cloth moistened with a few drops of denatured or isopropyl alcohol. Wash with warm soapy water.
H2No® fabrics It’s important to keep your Patagonia H2No® garment clean for optimal performance. Wash any H2No® garment in a washing machine in warm water (104º F/40º C) using a mild detergent. Make sure you rinse the garment well to remove all of the detergent. Don’t use a fabric softener.
Tumble dry on a warm setting. The dryer’s warmth helps renew the jacket’s durable water repellent (DWR) finish, which keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated when you’re in wet conditions.
If water no longer beads up on your garment, it’s time to put on another coat of DWR finish. We recommend replenishing the DWR finish once per season, or more often if the garment receives frequent use and washing. Our favorites are Nikwax® products, though there are many good products on the market. Whatever you choose, be sure to use a spray-on for two-layer garments (with a hanging mesh liner) or a wash-in for three-layer garments (with an interior fabric protecting the barrier).
To remove grease from an H2No® jacket, dampen the stain and rub in dishwashing liquid. Then wash the jacket in warm water with plenty of mild powder laundry detergent. If the stain persists, sponge it with a safe cleaning fluid (Renuzit® or Carbona®) or mineral spirits; you can find both at your local grocery store.
To get gum or sap out of a garment, first freeze the sap with some ice, then use a dull butter knife to scrape off as much as you can. Next, soak the garment in a water/white-vinegar solution, and machine wash with warm water and detergent.
Hemp Wash any garment made from hemp in cold or warm water with mild laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and dry it on a clothesline if possible. You may also use a dryer on a low heat setting. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact).
Ink Whisk away those heartbreaking stains with either denatured or isopropyl alcohol or lemon juice. Start by wetting a cotton ball or cotton cloth with a few drops of alcohol or lemon juice and rubbing an inconspicuous part of the garment. Allow the fabric to dry. If there’s no discoloration, wet a second cotton ball and rub the stain, but do not over saturate the fabric. Allow to dry. Using a toothbrush, clean the stain with a drop of dishwashing detergent and scrub until the stain disappears. Rinse the garment in warm water and blot the fabric dry with a clean towel.
Ironing In general, Patagonia garments do not require ironing. However, if you’re trying to make a good impression on “the parents” and you want to sharpen the crease down the front of your pants after an afternoon of bouldering, you should check the iron symbol on the care label of your garment first to make sure it can be safely ironed. If the iron symbol has a line through it – don’t iron. The dots on the label correspond to how much heat you should use – fewer dots mean less heat.
Lambswool Wash lambswool garments by hand in cool water with a bit of dishwashing liquid. Let the garment soak in the basin — don’t agitate the water, twist, rub or wring out the garment. Then rinse with fresh water until the water runs clear. Gently squeeze out excess water.
Air-dry your lambswool garment by laying it flat on a dry towel and stretching it to the correct size and shape before drying.
You can clean up stains on lambswool by spot-washing with a natural stain remover like white vinegar or lemon juice (test in an inconspicuous place first).
Merino Wool Baselayer Merino’s odor-resistant properties allow you to wear your garment multiple times between washings (ideal for road trips). That said, when even your dog refuses to share your sleeping bag, machine wash your merino baselayer in cold water. Tumble dry on low temperature, or dry flat to save energy and reduce environmental impact.
Merino Wool/Nylon/Polyester/Spandex Blends We blend fibers to provide comfort, moisture-wicking, stretch and long-term durability. Fiber blends withstand wear for a long life and resist odor, so you’ll still have friends when you’ve finished your trail run.
Machine wash fabric blends in cold water and tumble dry on low temperature (or hang them out the window on the drive between Bishop and Tuolumne).
Nylon and Nylon/Spandex Machine wash nylon garments in cool to warm water with a mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred). Line or tumble dry on low heat.
Oil If you find yourself under the car or truck on a long road trip for any reason, you might end up with oil in places where it doesn’t belong. Luckily, oil cleans out of fabrics quite easily. Washing your garment in warm, soapy water using a liquid detergent will usually remove the stain. If that doesn’t work, try blotting the stain with denatured or isopropyl alcohol (if the stain is stubborn) before washing in warm, soapy water.
Organic Cotton and Organic Cotton/Nylon/Spandex/Tencel® Lyocell Blends Wash in cool to warm water with mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred) and line dry or tumble dry on low heat.
Pine Sap If during a road trip you find some part of yourself or your gear covered with pine sap, grab some butter patties from the coffee shop. Work the butter into your tar, resin and grease stains. The stain should scrape off once the butter has soaked into the fabric. Wash with warm, soapy water to remove the butter and voila.
Polartec® Powershield® Pro Clean your Polartec® Powershield® Pro garment in a front-loading washer with cold water (85º F/30º C) and a mild detergent. Tumble dry on low heat to improve DWR (durable water repellent) finish performance. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impact).
Polyester Wash polyester in warm water in a machine set to Permanent Press. Use a mild laundry soap (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and line dry if possible. You may also use a dryer on a low heat setting, just make sure to remove it from the dryer quickly to prevent wrinkling.
To remove stains from polyester, try a few drops of dishwashing liquid directly on the stain and rub until the stain starts to lift. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Polyester Mesh Machine wash your polyester mesh fabric in warm water on the “permanent press” setting. Use a mild powdered laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and dry it on a clothesline if possible.
To remove stains from polyester mesh fabrics, try a few drops of dishwashing liquid directly on the stain and rub until the stain starts to lift. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Polyester/Nylon Blends, Polyester/Spandex Blends and Polyester/Nylon/Spandex Blends Machine wash your polyester or polyester blend garments in warm water on the “permanent press” setting. Use a mild powdered laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred) and line dry, or tumble dry on low heat. (Remove it from the dryer quickly to prevent wrinkling).
To remove stains, try a few drops of dishwashing liquid directly on the stain and rub until the stain starts to lift. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Polyester/Organic Cotton Blends Wash your polyester/organic cotton blend in cool to warm water with mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred) line dry, or tumble dry on low heat.
PrimaLoft® Insulation Machine wash your Primaloft® garment with a mild detergent on a gentle, cold-water cycle. Tumble dry on low or line dry.
Recycled Polyester Machine wash polyester in warm water on the ”permanent press” setting. Use a mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred) and dry it on a clothesline if possible. You may also use a dryer on a low heat setting, just make sure to remove it from the dryer quickly to prevent wrinkling.
To remove stains from polyester, try a few drops of dishwashing liquid directly on the stain and rub until the stain starts to lift. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Recycled Nylon Machine wash your recycled nylon garments in cool to warm water with a mild powdered laundry detergent (non-toxic, biodegradable types preferred). Line dry or tumble dry on low heat.
Red Wine Act as quickly as possible. Apply a solution of two cups water, a tablespoon of vinegar and a tablespoon of liquid detergent. If that doesn’t work, apply a solution of hydrogen peroxide, detergent and water. Blot with a clean dry cloth. Once the stain is out, launder per garment-care label.
If the stain does not come out, pour yourself another glass of red wine and forget about it.
Regulator® Insulation Machine wash your Regulator® Insulation in cool to warm water with a mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred). Dry by hanging on a clothesline or in the dryer on a low heat setting. (Line drying saves energy and reduces environmental impacts).
To remove grease from the polyester fibers of Regulator® Insulation, first try a liquid detergent rather than a powdered one in your washing machine. If the grease persists, rub the stain with a cotton ball or cotton cloth dampened with a few drops of denatured alcohol (found in the paint section of most home stores) to break up the grease, then wash as normal.
UPF Fabrics Lacking fur, feathers or scales, we humans have to think up clever ways to protect ourselves from the sun. Products with a UPF designation provide built-in sun protection that won’t wear off.
Elements of the sun-protection strategy can range from yarn selection to fabric construction to the use of special finishes (especially for light colors). To launder fabrics with a UPF rating, simply wash in cold water and tumble dry low (or line dry to reduce environmental impact).
Washing Instructions Washing instructions are printed on a white tag inside our garments. Following these instructions will help your gear have a long, interesting life. In general, washing your gear in cold or warm water with mild laundry detergent (nontoxic, biodegradable types preferred) and drying it on a clothesline are the best ways to clean Patagonia® products. Shepherd & Schaller reminds you to always consult the washing instructions on any garment. Failure to follow instructions may void any available warranty.
Water-repellency Replenishing Most waterproof/breathable shells on the market are originally treated with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish, which keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated so that the breathable barrier can do its job. This coating needs to be replenished once a season, or more often if the piece sees a lot of use. If water no longer beads up on your shell, it’s time for another finish. Our favorites are Nikwax® products, though there are many good products on the market. Whatever you choose, be sure to use a spray-on for 2-layer garments with a hanging mesh liner and a wash-in for 3-layer garments with an interior fabric protecting the barrier (Use only spray-on products on garments made with GORE-TEX® fabric).
